Pourquoi Montréal? (updated: 25th July)

So here I am, lingering in a coffee shop in Place Ville-Marie while mulling over the gloomy weather outside. This was certainly not the way I would have envisioned spending my last few days in Montreal. I have already dunked down half a cup of Americano, yet is still feeling as if I have a major hangover (note the clause ‘if’, no guys, I haven’t started drinking…yet). But considering just how much I slept last night, I might as well HAVE a hangover. Okay let’s backtrack a bit. Montreal is a great city, so it doesn’t help that I (stupidly) started thinking about all the things that might have and would have been. My sleeping node completely turned itself off from that moment on. While all this sentimentality was kicking in, I came across an article published on Midnightpoutine comparing  the merits and woes of Montreal and its Canadian rivals, the big T and Vancity. According to their online poll, Montreal is only leading the other two cities in 15 out of 100+ items and is currently placed in last place. Needless to say, I find it redundant to defend any one city as I haven’t lived in all three – BUT what I do know is that Montreal is the most ‘soulful’ city I’ve ever lived in.

Here’s a compilation of my top ten in Montreal. I’m by no means trying to be objective since I’ve always been biased towards the east side of the city. And to be honest, I don’t care very much for the HABS.

1. Bagels: I thank god the day he brought Isadore Shlafman and his bagels to Montreal. While I prefer Fairmount Bagels because of fond late night memories, its rival on St. Viateur is not to be missed for those who fancy a softer and more filling inside.
2. The Main (i.e. St. Laurent from Sherbrooke to Mont-Royal): There’s more to the Main than overpriced restaurants and smoked meat. And it might as well be the safest street at night. For it is also when day begins. The long lines outside Schwartz’s, the random greetings from drunkards, people sitting on the sidewalk while slurping down 2$ peanut butter chow-mein…
3. (Rue) Mont-Royal: It’s not as popular as St. Laurent or St. Denis when people talk of the Plateau area but it does have its own stash of cafes, brunch places, bars, second-hand (!!) record and bookstores. The street festivals they have every summer are definitely on par with (if not better) than the ones on St. Laurent.
4. Independent Cafes: Everyone who knows me well knows that I try as much as I can to avoid chain coffee shops. Caffe in Gamba, Toi, Moi et Café, Café Neve, Myriad…need I say more?
5. Jean-Talon Market: A nice alternative to chain supermarkets, Jean-Talon Market is located at the northeast end of the Little Italy strip. Opened almost 365 days a year, the Market has some of the best ice-cream (Harve aux Glace), fresh produce and deep-fried squid in the city. While others are bombarded with the choice between a earring or a headscarf, noodles or pita etc, I’m sucking in the myriad of herbs, fruits, vegetables and cheeses with my nose and palette. Hmmm now if I could just find something similar in Toronto…minus the Quebecois accent.
6. Little Italy: It is a funny walk from the Plateau to Little Italy. Three completely different neighborhoods within half an hour away from each other. While Le Plateau has become a  haven for students and artists, Mile End is a mix of independent cafes and industrious remnants from the last era. Other than a bakery and a couple of karaoke/bar places, St. Laurent is quite frankly, dead in the Mile End area. After another 15 minutes of walking along the strip, an arc bearing the name of the ‘hood finally comes into sight. With the myriad of Italian restos and cafes before you, take a stroll around the area and indulge yourself in a cup of espresso or gelato.
7. St. Catherine (east of St. Laurent): St. Catherine et St. Laurent: arguably the best intersection for scene-spotting. Despite the construction sites that have been popping up on basically every corner of downtown Montreal, Montrealais still find a way to party and dress up in the most incredulous of outfits: corsets and fishnets during January, full amour during mid-summer. Further down east is the infamous Gay Village, where drag queens, alternative bars, sex shops abound. Lots of drama guaranteed.
8. Dance floors: Probably where I first found comfort in the company of those outside McGill. I can’t say that I’m crazy about the clubbing scene in general, but clubbing in Montreal is more chill than say, Hong Kong. No strict dress code, affordable for most people (not to mention that there are guests lists for practically every club as long as you get in before 12am) and  features a larger variety of music. What I really fell in love with though, was the social dancing scene. I have probably spent more Friday nights on St. Laurent lindy-hopping and west coast swinging than any other activity over the past two years.
9. (The ‘mountain’) Mont-Royal: Montrealais really like improvising. And what a better way to witness that than during the weekly Tamstams during the summer months on lower Mont-Royal. I once saw some guy banging on sinks and other kitchen appliances on the side. IN TUNE. Talk about improvisation.
10. Now that I have come to the end of this list, I realized that there is still too much that I haven’t yet gotten to in Montreal. I’m going to leave this no. 10 as TBD…I will come back some day.

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